Our tour of the arrondissements continues to make its way across the upper borders of the right bank with a look at the 17e arrondissement. In contrast to the 16e with all its museums and flashy monuments, the 17e has almost no tourist attractions. Technically, it is home to a corner of the Arc de Triomphe. But beyond this, very few visitors ever find themselves in this district. That being said, the 17e is home to over 155,000 Parisians, so what it lacks in tourist attractions, it more than makes up for in local flair. This is because the 17e is packed with restaurants, cafes, shops, and markets that are all local havens. So let’s dive in!
The Village of Batignolles
One of the most charming neighbourhoods within the 17e is the beautiful village of Batignolles. This area is packed with amazing restaurants, fantastic markets, and Square des Batignolles, a lovely park located right in the heart of this area. Food lovers should head to Rue Brochant, a short street that is lined with restaurants that are all local haunts. And if markets are more your style, the Marché des Batignolles on Rue Lemercier is open six days a week, with dozens of vendors, canteens, and sit-down food stops on offer. Finally, to end the night on a high, head a couple of blocks south to Rue des Dames to explore the neighbourhood’s many wine bars and nightlife venues. There truly is something for everyone in the village of Batignolles.
Modernity in Every Century
The 17e arrondissement is famously eclectic when it comes to its overall style. This is the district where you will find everything from traditional Haussmannien buildings to beautiful Art Deco architecture. Additionally, the city hall of the 17e, known as the Mairie, is the only Mairie in Paris to be housed in a contemporary building. It was built between 1970 and 1972, and is yet another example of the wide range of architecture on display in this arrondissement. And it’s not just architecture. The beautiful Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King was originally developed as part of Paris’ bid to host the 2012 Olympic Games. That bid was not successful, but the park was completed anyway, creating a beautiful green oasis in the middle of the 17e.
Palais de Congrès de Paris
If you are visiting Paris on holiday, chances are the 17e arrondissement is not high on your list of places to visit. However, if you’re here for work, there’s a good chance you’ll be heading to the 17e because of the Palais de Congrès de Paris. This massive complex holds over 32,000 square metres of event space, including amphitheatres, convention halls, and conference rooms. It is also home to theatres, concert venues, a shopping mall, and one of the largest hotels in Paris. Hundreds of events, conventions, and trade shows take place at the Palais de Congrès every year, and in 1978, it even hosted the Eurovision Song Contest.
Hidden Gems
Sainte-Odile – A beautiful church with Art Deco architecture and stained glass, as well as the highest bell tower in Paris.
Cité des Fleur – An incredibly charming and picturesque pedestrian street that is lined with vine covered houses.
Musée Jean-Jacques Henner – An entire museum dedicated to an artist no one has ever heard of who was a master of both sfumato and chiaroscuro painting techniques.
Dose – Full disclosure, I don’t drink coffee. Meaning I can’t comment personally on the quality of the coffee on offer at Dose. However, more than one friend whose opinions I trust has told me that Dose has some of the best coffee in Paris. So I’m going to take their word for it.
Fun Fact
The Arc de Triomphe stands in the centre of a traffic circle that functions as a hub for 12 radial roads. These roads are typical Haussmannien boulevards, extending outwards from the Arc into the 8e, 16e, and 17e arrondissements. However, Avenue Carnot, the main radial leading into the 17e, only extends for one block. That was all that managed to be completed before Haussmann fell from power, and so the avenue was never completed. To this day, it simply deposits its traffic into the narrow and decidedly non-Haussmannien Rue de Armaillé.
Want to read more about the arrondissements of Paris? Click HERE.
Laura Moore is a professional storyteller who loves history and the many stories that make Paris one of the most fascinating cities in the world. Join one of her signature tours to learn the story of a city.
